The Taj

Three balloon sales men making deals and robbing your money.

Tonight we had a relaxing snack at the old Taj Hotel. We sat by the window looking out at the harbor sipping Pina Colada and Sunrise drinks while eating Oreo Cheese cake. A night to remember for a long time.

BOMBAY

This is Bombay. The center of Bollywood and the life of India. It is full of fun, adventures, and nice people. Every thing is here in Bollywood.

Day 2 in Bombay

Jamini Ahluwalia hosted a gathering for us at 8 Carmichal Road. Guests included a range of people including members of the extended Moraji / Ahluwalia families. Although Kim has already settled into Chandu's apartment, he has left it very much the same. and her presence is everyplace...

Later in the evening, Shumona, who went to Bard College with Ashim and is now married to him, took us to a classical music concert in the home of some artists who live down the street from where Gandhi once lived. The concert was especially significant - although we understood almost nothing - because it was the last one in a house that has been home to the host's family for almost 6 generations. Taxes and other costs have made some of the older homes unaffordable and people have been selling out to developers. 30 or so us crushed into the parlor, to listen to a master vocalist improvise ragas accompanied by two musicians on a lute type of instrument and on tablas. Language did not seem to be a barrier, and we both felt we were being given an intimate glimpse of India today.

And we also visited Marble Arch which still looks like a great place to live!

A shot of the Jagdish Temple in Udaipur


One mommy monkey and one baby monkey

A Sadhu at the Jagdish temple

Sipping coffee with Tendzin Losel and a Monk from Thailand

Our heads have been in the clouds for days -

At about 9:30 this morning a car arrived to take Asher and me, with our new friend Tendzin Losel, to the Gyuto Tantric Monastery and official home of His Holiness, the Seventeenth Gyalwa Karmapa, Urgen Thinley. The journey involved a hair-raising drive up and down and around sharp mountain corners on a single lane "highway" that made the roads in Bhutan seem like nothing (and we were quite literally in the clouds). After about 45 minutes we arrived at a beautiful monastic settlement, nestled in the mountains and surrounded by Indian Secret Service. There were men with machine guns at the entrance and in key locations throughout the part of the monastery we visited. We entered a building, where we handed over our passports and waited in a reception room. Eventually a group of about 25 people from Taiwan joined us and also the extended family of an elderly couple from someplace in India. We were offered chai and cookies as we waited. Finally a few officials and a friendly, kind looking and obviously senior monk came in to tell us it would not be long. We were told we could not take our cameras or cell phones in and that we would have to go through additional security checks. Asher went out with the men and I stayed with the women. We were frisked, asked to walk through a metal detector and then headed up the stairs. Fortunately we had been able to speak on the telephone to the Karmapa's chief lietenant so were welcomed especially warmly and put at the head of the line. Suddenly the doors opened and Asher and I entered the room with our katas on our arms and Asher's thoughtful present of two video games in his hands. The young Karmapa received our awkward offering of the katas and put them around our necks and then shook our hands. All of the monks have been impressed with Asher's height and the Karmapa was no exception. We exchanged a little bit of small talk, told him how honored we were and asked if a photo could be taken. The official photographer (cleared by Indian Security) took our photos which will be delivered to our hotel. The Karmapa presented us with a booklet, a traditional red string and wished us well. As we left we were introduced by the senior monk, Thupten Sherpa, to a much older monk - perhaps in his 90ies. He believed he recognized us and presented each of us with charms with the Karmapa's photo. And that was all before 11:00! We next headed to the Norbulingka Institute, founded to preserve and promote Tibetan art and culture. We observed students making aplique thangkas, painting and also carpentry. The setting is spectacular; Asher will post photos when we next can. We also visited the Tibetan Childrens Village (stories and photos to follow - and finally because of my new job an 1852 Anglican Church called St John in the Wilderness where the British Viceroy Lorg Elgin is buried. We got back to our Hotel at about 4:00 and at about 4:15 the rains began.

So far in McLeod Ganj we have only been walking around the town and taking in the ....everything! We are just taking it slow this week because we have been going no-stop for the first two weeks at forts, treks and forts. So this is our relaxe time. There will be more photos when we get the wifi on the laptop. Untill then you will just have too imagine what we are seeing.

the mountain air

We have been walking up and down the hill much of day; getting caught in showers and buying new umbrellas. During one of our breaks, we stopped to get traditional "Tibetan" massages and have agreed to try to have one every day. On a late afternoon outing we followed the sounds of volatile shouts and clapping until we found the source: monks taking part in a ritual debate. We watched and then continued on our way.

Namgyal Monastery

Asher and I joined hundreds of monks, local people and tourists for a candlelight procession and vigil last night, soon after we arrived. We did not know what we were getting ourselves into as we followed the silent crowd into a narrow alleyway that ended up in the open plaza area of the monastery. Senior monks were chanting up on the podium, as we found places to sit down. Surrounded by the Dhauladhar Mountain Range, we were entertained by the antics of monkeys on the roofs and in the trees while the sun disappeared. Asher sat among a group of younger monks who were taking part in a wax ball (from the dripping candles) fight.

Arrival

At exactly 3:11:25 we arrived at our hotel at McLeodganj in Dharamsala. The hotel we stay at is nice and our room is...dare i say.... suite. I used a word with two meanings. The room is very sweet and is a suite. For now. We get a room change the next day to a smaller room. Oh well...at least there are lots of markets in the town.

The Road to Udaipur

After too brief a visit to the Tragarh Fort in Bundi, we started off for Chittorgarh for a look at the grandest of Rajastan's forts. Dating back to the 8th Century, the great wall hugs a rim of a mountain that can be seen from miles away. And despite all the centuries of determination that went into its creation, it was fully sacked three times. Each time the entire population committed "jauhar" rather than surender. Akbar eventually took over in the 16th Century forcing the Maharaja to flee to Udaipur, where Asher and I are now trying to put the full story together. We do not have internet in our Hotel, which is a beautifully appointed Haveli on the Lake . More soon!

Battle Royal

In Jaipur there was a huge battle between me the ants and the monkeys. First was the ants. When we went to dinner, at least 200 ants got in to the hotel hallway and like 25 in our room. I had to start the war. I had slain at least 10 when another wave came and I was getting surrounded. So i pulled a fast one and got them all. But more came and I had no idea why. Then I discovered that they were crawling under the door. So I put a towel on the ground with some shoe reinforcement. I had won round one. Then I sadly lost round two the next day for I was attacked by monkeys. I was walking alone when I went upstairs and was just looking. Then out of no where at least six monkeys came running around the corner screeching and howling. I looked and thought they were dogs so I ran a way but they were quick. I turned the corner when one punched my waist. I had gotten down the stairs and they stopped, looked at me and yelled. I was cornered in the wall between the balcony of the road and another balcony that lead to a lower level. Just as I was thinking to run and jump to escape the monkeys, the waiter from the restaurant came running up grabbed a pole and scared them off. So i ran in the room and thanked him later. I had lost.

Horoscope's

Through out this trip, every morning we have had a newspaper called the Times of India. Lisa would read the news while I like any young kid looked at the comics. I looked at the usual Calvin and Hobbs and B.C.. But the strangest part was the horoscopes. Every morning I would read mine and every morning they were strangely accurate. One said stay away from foreign foods. I didn't so then I tried new foods and got Delhi Belly. Then another one said your health will recover. It did. Then the wierdest one was you will be pushed out of your comfort zone and to follow the advice of an older woman in your circle. That's Weird.

Us on the elephant.

A street scene of Jaipur.

The Snake charmers.

The Coolest Fort.

Jaipur

Asher and I left Agra at about noon today, after managing to spend time at each of the places we most wanted to visit (more on that when we find ourselves in a proper WIFI situation... ) in our car with our driver - Mr Bapu Lal -
and headed first to Fatephur Sikri where we were hynotized by the beauty and depleted by the mid-afternoon heat. We persevered and eventually made it back to the car and now sit in a 260 year old Haveli, Karnot Mahal (in need of further renovation) - but with one internet connection and a television (Asher's main two requirements). We do not know what is for supper but we are ready. Tomorrow we head to the Amber Fort on Elephants (of course) and then to spend an afternoon in Jaipur and another night here. We stood on the roof and watched a family of monkeys cavorting on a small roof top terrace just across the road. A change of plans resulted in an opportunity for us to spend Friday (neither of us can remember what day it is) in the magical village of Bundi where Rudyard Kipling wrote much of Kim and other tales of India
.

Fantastic Asher. Keep taking the great photos! They are really wonderful. Not only a once in a lifetime view, but a once in a life time trip.

Almost a Day in Agra

The classic view of the Taj.

The view no one knows about.

Me adding a minaret at Sikandra (Akbar's Mausoleum)

Varanasi

A scene from the boat zone

The Shiva Worship temple

<------------ Our wonderful strong Boat drivers

<------

The Once in a Life time sight

Varanasi

We made it ... more soon. Internet cafes and naked sadhus everyplace. Asher is documenting and we are off now to a ceremony across the river.

Day 2, LAS perspective

Asher and I have hoovered into our visit to Delhi, neither of us understanding what we were in for ---- on any level. Although brief in real time, we have found ourselves exclaiming about the wonders of how much can fit into a minute when our eyes take in unfamiliar ways of being. We have been startled by the contrasts - that just about everyone writes about. The extraodinary diversity; the roads and our survival each time we successfully cross a major street or get out of tuk-tuk or rick-shaw. During our two days, we have retreated to which ever big Luxury Hotel is in the neighborhood for calm and airconditioning before wondering out again for another dose of the incredible world we are visiting.

Asher at the Imperial, after hours with the Mughals at the Red Fort

Incredible

Wow...looks like a very incredible trip so far. Keep taking the photos. I can't wait to see your next posting. have fun.

Delhi Day 1

Doboom Rinpoche (Director Tibet House, New Delhi) and AMS...

Good Karma

A street scene from our took-took.

A rickshaw waiting for a customer.

A homeless man

Scene from a taxi ride.

A tomb at Lodi Gardens

and reflections at a bridge

Me, Lisa and our friend Bimla Kayshyap at Lodi

Hello, Eastern Voyager

So how is it so far??? You must have been there at least a few hours—why no posts? I miss you already.

The Ever Evolving Itinerary, as of today (suggestions welcome) -

July 1
Asher and Lisa board Continental Airlines at Newark Airport ...

July 2nd – July 5th (3 nights)

New Delhi
• The Maidens Hotel in Old Delhi -

July 5th – July 7th (2 nights)


10:40AM flight to Varanasi--- one of the holiest cities in India

• Ganges View Guest House




Try to catch the 17:20 (BSP) Marudhar Express train to Agra (AF or IDH), arriving at 6:15ish...


from July 8th – 9th (2 nights)

• Taj Mahal



• Fatehpur Sikri





• Itimadudulah



July 9th – July 14th (5 nights)

Jaipur (2 nights)

...with thoughts of journeying through the countryside to visit and see the work being done by the people associated with the Barefoot College (www.barefootcollege.org)

Bundi (1 Night)

Udaipur (2 nights)

JULY 14
Delhi to catch an overnight train called the Jammu Mail which leaves OLD DELHI Railway station at 9.15pm each night and gets you to Pathankot Station usually arriving around 7.30am OR a day train called the Malwa Express which leaves NEW DELHI at 8am and arrives at Chakki Bank Station around 4.10pm OR an overnight deluxe bus OR and finally a 1:45 (less than 2 hour flight)!!!



July 14th – July 19th (5 nights)
Dharamsala / Mcleodganj
Chonor House, off Bhagsu Road


July 19th – July 23rd (4 nights)

Bombay, with the Ahluwalia families

the Gateway

July 24
HOME !!!!!