The Taj

Three balloon sales men making deals and robbing your money.

Tonight we had a relaxing snack at the old Taj Hotel. We sat by the window looking out at the harbor sipping Pina Colada and Sunrise drinks while eating Oreo Cheese cake. A night to remember for a long time.

BOMBAY

This is Bombay. The center of Bollywood and the life of India. It is full of fun, adventures, and nice people. Every thing is here in Bollywood.

Day 2 in Bombay

Jamini Ahluwalia hosted a gathering for us at 8 Carmichal Road. Guests included a range of people including members of the extended Moraji / Ahluwalia families. Although Kim has already settled into Chandu's apartment, he has left it very much the same. and her presence is everyplace...

Later in the evening, Shumona, who went to Bard College with Ashim and is now married to him, took us to a classical music concert in the home of some artists who live down the street from where Gandhi once lived. The concert was especially significant - although we understood almost nothing - because it was the last one in a house that has been home to the host's family for almost 6 generations. Taxes and other costs have made some of the older homes unaffordable and people have been selling out to developers. 30 or so us crushed into the parlor, to listen to a master vocalist improvise ragas accompanied by two musicians on a lute type of instrument and on tablas. Language did not seem to be a barrier, and we both felt we were being given an intimate glimpse of India today.

And we also visited Marble Arch which still looks like a great place to live!

A shot of the Jagdish Temple in Udaipur


One mommy monkey and one baby monkey

A Sadhu at the Jagdish temple

Sipping coffee with Tendzin Losel and a Monk from Thailand

Our heads have been in the clouds for days -

At about 9:30 this morning a car arrived to take Asher and me, with our new friend Tendzin Losel, to the Gyuto Tantric Monastery and official home of His Holiness, the Seventeenth Gyalwa Karmapa, Urgen Thinley. The journey involved a hair-raising drive up and down and around sharp mountain corners on a single lane "highway" that made the roads in Bhutan seem like nothing (and we were quite literally in the clouds). After about 45 minutes we arrived at a beautiful monastic settlement, nestled in the mountains and surrounded by Indian Secret Service. There were men with machine guns at the entrance and in key locations throughout the part of the monastery we visited. We entered a building, where we handed over our passports and waited in a reception room. Eventually a group of about 25 people from Taiwan joined us and also the extended family of an elderly couple from someplace in India. We were offered chai and cookies as we waited. Finally a few officials and a friendly, kind looking and obviously senior monk came in to tell us it would not be long. We were told we could not take our cameras or cell phones in and that we would have to go through additional security checks. Asher went out with the men and I stayed with the women. We were frisked, asked to walk through a metal detector and then headed up the stairs. Fortunately we had been able to speak on the telephone to the Karmapa's chief lietenant so were welcomed especially warmly and put at the head of the line. Suddenly the doors opened and Asher and I entered the room with our katas on our arms and Asher's thoughtful present of two video games in his hands. The young Karmapa received our awkward offering of the katas and put them around our necks and then shook our hands. All of the monks have been impressed with Asher's height and the Karmapa was no exception. We exchanged a little bit of small talk, told him how honored we were and asked if a photo could be taken. The official photographer (cleared by Indian Security) took our photos which will be delivered to our hotel. The Karmapa presented us with a booklet, a traditional red string and wished us well. As we left we were introduced by the senior monk, Thupten Sherpa, to a much older monk - perhaps in his 90ies. He believed he recognized us and presented each of us with charms with the Karmapa's photo. And that was all before 11:00! We next headed to the Norbulingka Institute, founded to preserve and promote Tibetan art and culture. We observed students making aplique thangkas, painting and also carpentry. The setting is spectacular; Asher will post photos when we next can. We also visited the Tibetan Childrens Village (stories and photos to follow - and finally because of my new job an 1852 Anglican Church called St John in the Wilderness where the British Viceroy Lorg Elgin is buried. We got back to our Hotel at about 4:00 and at about 4:15 the rains began.

So far in McLeod Ganj we have only been walking around the town and taking in the ....everything! We are just taking it slow this week because we have been going no-stop for the first two weeks at forts, treks and forts. So this is our relaxe time. There will be more photos when we get the wifi on the laptop. Untill then you will just have too imagine what we are seeing.

the mountain air

We have been walking up and down the hill much of day; getting caught in showers and buying new umbrellas. During one of our breaks, we stopped to get traditional "Tibetan" massages and have agreed to try to have one every day. On a late afternoon outing we followed the sounds of volatile shouts and clapping until we found the source: monks taking part in a ritual debate. We watched and then continued on our way.

Namgyal Monastery

Asher and I joined hundreds of monks, local people and tourists for a candlelight procession and vigil last night, soon after we arrived. We did not know what we were getting ourselves into as we followed the silent crowd into a narrow alleyway that ended up in the open plaza area of the monastery. Senior monks were chanting up on the podium, as we found places to sit down. Surrounded by the Dhauladhar Mountain Range, we were entertained by the antics of monkeys on the roofs and in the trees while the sun disappeared. Asher sat among a group of younger monks who were taking part in a wax ball (from the dripping candles) fight.

Grandma, Grandpa, Aunt Wendy, Matthew, and Dana love all the pictures. Grandma is really enjoying the emails. We all wish we were there to celebrate Lisa's birthday but promise a lovely celebration on this side of the ocean ;~}.

Arrival

At exactly 3:11:25 we arrived at our hotel at McLeodganj in Dharamsala. The hotel we stay at is nice and our room is...dare i say.... suite. I used a word with two meanings. The room is very sweet and is a suite. For now. We get a room change the next day to a smaller room. Oh well...at least there are lots of markets in the town.

The Road to Udaipur

After too brief a visit to the Tragarh Fort in Bundi, we started off for Chittorgarh for a look at the grandest of Rajastan's forts. Dating back to the 8th Century, the great wall hugs a rim of a mountain that can be seen from miles away. And despite all the centuries of determination that went into its creation, it was fully sacked three times. Each time the entire population committed "jauhar" rather than surender. Akbar eventually took over in the 16th Century forcing the Maharaja to flee to Udaipur, where Asher and I are now trying to put the full story together. We do not have internet in our Hotel, which is a beautifully appointed Haveli on the Lake . More soon!

Battle Royal

In Jaipur there was a huge battle between me the ants and the monkeys. First was the ants. When we went to dinner, at least 200 ants got in to the hotel hallway and like 25 in our room. I had to start the war. I had slain at least 10 when another wave came and I was getting surrounded. So i pulled a fast one and got them all. But more came and I had no idea why. Then I discovered that they were crawling under the door. So I put a towel on the ground with some shoe reinforcement. I had won round one. Then I sadly lost round two the next day for I was attacked by monkeys. I was walking alone when I went upstairs and was just looking. Then out of no where at least six monkeys came running around the corner screeching and howling. I looked and thought they were dogs so I ran a way but they were quick. I turned the corner when one punched my waist. I had gotten down the stairs and they stopped, looked at me and yelled. I was cornered in the wall between the balcony of the road and another balcony that lead to a lower level. Just as I was thinking to run and jump to escape the monkeys, the waiter from the restaurant came running up grabbed a pole and scared them off. So i ran in the room and thanked him later. I had lost.